Forging Health and Heritage

We unwittingly ingest a lot of plastic. Aside from hidden amounts that leach into every pore of our petroleum-based lives, the stacks of peeling non-stick cooking utensils in any thrift store are an obvious visual confirmation.

Too convincing to ignore, evidence about the hazards of consuming synthetic polymers is reviving an appreciation for all-metal cookware that endures, and can even improve, through generations of use. Of course, ingested metal is not always benign.  A classic example is the likelihood that lead leached from water pipes and pewter wine goblets caused the insanity that helped to end the Roman Empire. And everyone today should be aware of hazardous mercury levels in seafood.

Parmesan Cheese Kettle - Bra, Italy
Many common metals, though, are proving to be the best choice for use in the kitchen, especially those that are a natural part of the human body. A growing food safety awareness is polishing the gleam on copper cookware for its inherent microbial properties which is old news to traditional Parmesan and Gruyere cheesemakers who may still be using the same copper production kettles their ancestors forged generations ago.

Credit: Blu Skillet
Blending art with utility, hand crafted metal cookware casts its beauty on everyday life. For artisan level producers, such as Blu Skillet Ironware in Seattle's Ballard district and Brooklyn Copper Cookware in Brooklyn, New York, the greatest challenge has been keeping pace with customer demand.
Credit: Brooklyn Copper

Brooklyn Copper Cookware (BCC) was deluged with orders soon after it opened near the abandoned site of America's last great copper cookware manufacturer, the Bruno Waldow Company.

In response, BCC expanded its business model through partnerships with other artisan coppersmiths and expects to soon launch a new chapter in the history of hand made American cookware. The BCC website is brimming with reverence for the art of heirloom kitchen tools.

For those looking to try their own hand at working metal, the Farm to Table concept outlines a logical path for learning the craft. Start with simple (and forgiving) garden tools before taking on the more demanding pots and pans.

Every Summer in Montana, brothers Mark and Dennis Van der Meer of Bad Goat Forest Products offer affordable workshops on forging your own garden tools.  The Van der Meers are thorough but entertaining instructors with a contagious passion for metal work. Even the distraction of earning advanced degrees in various sciences didn't pull them away from the hammer and anvil. The Farm Hack video below is an overview of a typical workshop experience.

Durable handcrafted metal tools for the kitchen and garden are a bridge between preserving our heritage and sustaining our future. In the present, they are the essence of timeless pleasure.


Touring Paradise

LaFranchi Ranch
View of the LaFranchi Ranch
Tours of the dairy farms and creameries in Sonoma and West Marin are always the sell-out attraction of the annual California Artisan Cheese Festival, held each Spring in Petaluma, CA. 

During the 2012 Festival, I was grateful to lead the tour entitled, “California's Cheesemaking Counties: Sonoma to Marin”. Limousine service was provided by Pure Luxury.  Reggie, our wonderful chauffeur, wafted us for a full day between three farmstead cheesemakers covering cow, goat, and sheep milk types.



Curious Goat - Achadinha Dairy
Curious Girl ~ Achadinha Morning Milk
Achadinha Cheese Company 
Starting with the Pacheco Family Dairy and Achadinha Cheese Company, we arrived just in time to see “the girls”, as Donna Pacheco affectionately refers to her goats, line up for their morning shift in the milking parlour.

They were as curious about us as we were about them! More than 1000 strong and of various breeds including, Alpines, Saanens, Toggenburgs, la Manchas, Oberhaslis, floppy-eared Nubians, and mixes of all types, it was easy to see how smart and socially savvy these girls are.

While playing with newborn kids, we learned that “Nanny” goats really are just that!  Mother goats take turns watching over piles of babies.  When one “Nanny” ends her shift, another wanders in to take her place. The babies are never alone.
Achadinha Kids in a Cuddle
Achadinha Kids in a Cuddle

Highlighting our visit was a creamery tour that explained every step in the process of making Achadinha’s expanding selection of goat and mixed milk cheeses from fresh feta to year old hand pressed wheels.  Along the way, we tasted every cheese and met every member of the Pacheo family, a wonderful welcome at the start of our day.





Achadinha Cheese Company Links:Achadinha Cheese Company ; Novato PatchYelp Reviews



Nicasio Valley Cheese Company
 
View of the LaFranchi Dairy
View of the LaFranchi Dairy
Our next stop was the LaFranchi family’s organic dairy and Nicasio Valley Cheese Company where we first enjoyed a locally sourced lunch while overlooking the gorgeous green hills of West Marin.

Scott Lafranchi holding Nicasio Square
Scott Lafranchi ~ Nicasio Square
Established by Fredolino LaFranchi  in 1919, the cattle ranch and dairy are among the oldest in the county.  In 2007, as a tribute to their Swiss heritage, the family began making cheese under the guidance of Swiss master cheesemaker Maurizio Lorenzetti and the venture has become an award winning success.

Sold in leading grocery and specialty stores throughout the Bay Area, Nicasio Valley cheeses are also available in the family’s own delightful shop next to the creamery.  Our tour enjoyed lingering there for nearly an hour over a tasting and discussion of the family’s signature Italian-Swiss cheeses.

Nicasio Valley Cheese Links:Nicasio Valley Cheese ; North Bay Business Journal ; Novato Patch




Barinaga Ranch 
Spring Lambs at Barinaga Ranch
Spring Lambs at Barinaga Ranch
The tour finale at Barinaga Ranch in Marshall could not have been more exciting.  Just as we arrived, a ewe went into hard labor and so we followed Marcia Barinaga, the ranch owner and cheesemaker, into the barn where she helped to deliver twin lambs.

Marica is one of Marin’s most recent converts to ranching and cheesemaking.  Both she and her husband, Corey Goodman, are molecular biologists who planned to use the ranch as a place to retire. But for Marica, an avocation soon became a new full-time career.

Ewes and Lambs at Barinaga Ranch
Ewes and Lambs at Barinaga Ranch
Located on a hillside above the east shore of Tomales Bay with views of Point Reyes and the Pacific beyond, the Barinaga Ranch is a spectacular member of the Marin Agricultural Land Trust (MALT), the first land trust in the United States dedicated to preserving farmland and maintaining it for productive agriculture. Along with an experienced ranching staff and four Great Pyrenees shepherd dogs,

Marcia raises flocks of East Friesian and Katahdin sheep and is experimenting with a crossbreed of the two.  Once the lambs are weaned in the Spring, she begins milking the ewes twice a day in order to produce a Basque style cheese that harkens back to her family heritage.

In 1900, Marcia’s grandfather immigrated from a Basque village to the mountains of Idaho where he became a sheep rancher.   Although he didn’t make cheese with his sheep milk, Marcia saw Basque cheesemaking as a natural tribute to her ancestral lifestyle.  In 2007, she went to the Basque country and learned to make their traditional cheeses.  Produced by hand and in limited quantities, Marcia's cheeses are now among the most celebrated in the country.
Barinaga Ranch Links:Barinaga Ranch ; Bay Area Bites ;Culture Magazine





Cuddle with a Cute Kid!
Cuddle with a Cute Kid!
The California Artisan Cheese Festival
Visit the Festival Website: (artisancheesefestival.com) for schedule and registration details. Tours sell-out fast! Get tickets now or get on the waiting list.  An adventure of the heart is calling!

Washington Wines and the Northwest Wine Academy

Pike Place Tasting Room ~ Seattle 
California no longer continuously tops the list when someone requests an excellent domestic US wine. Washington State was one of the first US regions to cultivate wine grapes and those years of experience have been producing distinguished results for more than a decade.

Even European vintners are taking notice of Washington Wines, exploring the region for possible collaboration and development. In 2011, Paul Beveridge and his Seattle based Wilridge Winery represented Washington State in the Consorzio di Nebbiolo in Stressa, Italy. 


NWWA Monthly Release Tasting
Nebbiolo is an old and revered Italian grape with origins in Piedmont and Lombardy. So it was a particular honor that the Italians were impressed by the Wilridge Estate Nebbiolo and invited Paul to return the following year to speak about his success with cultivating Nebbiolo in the Northwestern United States.

Historians often credit the Hudson Bay Company with planting the first Washington vineyards around 1825. Unlike those cultivated around the Monasteries of California, the majority of Washington grapes at that time were the Concord variety destined for juice, jelly and some fortified beverages.

The earliest noteworthy Washington wines were produced in the 1900’s but were quickly quelled by Prohibition and other restrictive regulation. Meanwhile, in California, sacramental wine was allowed in spite of Prohibition so the Monks were given a market advantage they may have appreciated. 


Home winemaking in Washington, however, did quietly thrive over this period, establishing a dedicated group of family vintners and a small but appreciative audience by the end of Prohibition. 

Significant support for Washington Wines came when the State recognized the economic value of enology and began investing in the development of a world-class industry. The Washington State Commission was formed as a trade and business association in 1987.  
NWWA Alumni Award Tasting

The Commission's lobbying arm, the Washington Wine Institute, opened in 2003 and partnered with Washington State University to offer degrees in all aspects of the industry. 

Always expanding to meet demand for training, WSU is premiering a state-of-the-art Wine Science Center, located near Richland, in January 2015.





Wine Science Center at WSU Tri-Cities from PixelSoft Films on Vimeo.

Students evaluating components of aroma
According to Steve Warner, president of the Washington State Wine Commission, there are more than 800 licensed wineries with an economic impact of nearly $8.6 billion in the State. "Washington wines now consistently outperform wines from other regions of the world," he said.

A 2013 cutting-edge addition to the Northwest Wine Academy (NWWA) on the campus of South Seattle College is also helping to propel Washington vintners to the top of global markets. 


Culinary School Confections
Granting both degrees and certificates in wine making, marketing and pairing with foods, NWWA is now home to a web ready teaching facility, connecting to partner programs around the world.  

Adding to its attraction, rows of gleaming steel tanks and spicy oak barrels also play host to weekly tastings and monthly releases of student and alumni wines. In conjunction with the South Seattle Culinary School, an array of paired delicacies, arranged to please the eye as well as the palate, accompany these public events . 

Anyone new to Washington wines or looking to augment their appreciation will find a comprehensive resource of news, events, history and education at the Washington Wine Commission website.  A great way to prepare for complete enjoyment!

Bologna Italy ~ Infused with a Taste for the Good Life

Bologna Italy is infused with the feeling that every day is a luxurious adventure. Shop windows and stalls are a constant presentation of delights. Cheese, prosciutto, wine, and pasta feed a vibrating elation of taste and transaction throughout Piazza Maggiore. The zenith, though, of this sensuous verve may be Cafe Gamberini, the oldest bakery in Bologna.


Cafe Pasticcera Gamberini
Seeing a Gamberini display for the first time, a visitor may thrill at the wonder of how such perfection could be produced for ordinary consumption. And then be further astounded the following day by a whole new array of flawless confection.

So to begin this new year with the sweetest of dreams, treat your eyes to this feast of Gamberini creations.  Enjoy 2015!







Cork City Ireland

Cork English Market Main Entrance Interior
English Market Main Entrance
Cork City is the culinary capital of Ireland, and anyone who doubts that claim has only to visit The English Market to be converted. Built in response to Cork's economic prosperity in the eighteenth century, it opened on August 1, 1788, and has survived many challenges, including a devastating fire in 1980. Today it is the centerpiece of Cork's thriving culinary economy and a vibrant reminder of its long history in artisan food production.
Quoting from The English Market Website: 
The unrivalled ability of Cork Harbour to shelter the biggest fleets assembled during the American War of Independence and later during the Napoleonic Wars was a major factor in the expansion of the provisions trade in Cork. The Cork Butter Market, with its strict and rigorously enforced system of quality control, was world famous and became the largest butter market in the world for its time.





The First Quality Control System for Food


Cork Butter Early Export Map
Cork Butter ~ Early Export Map
The Cork Butter Museum is another testament to Cork County's centuries old artisan food industry. Illustrated through rooms of detailed displays, the museum pays tribute to the city's strategic contribution in expanding global trade routes soon after Columbus sailed to the Americas. Perhaps its most important and lasting innovation, though, was the establishment of a quality grading system for butter, essentially creating the world's first food quality control system.



Celebrating the Science of Good Food


University College Cork Dairy Department Signage
UCC Dairy Department Signage
Crowning Cork's reputation for good food is the School of Food and Nutritional Sciences at University College Cork (UCC). In addition to being one of Europe's most respected food science research centers, it is also the oldest dairy science training institution in the world.  It's no surprise then that milk and cheese have such prominence in this UCC video production about 5th century Irish foods.